Tom Feneley - Australian Surfer
Where are you from?
I am from the south coast of New South Wales, Australia.
What is your favourite thing about living in Australia?
The amazing waves and people.
How did you get into surfing?
When I was six years old I lived directly across the road from the beach and my dad would push me into the whitewash on his board.
How do you get to the beach?
I live about a 5 minute walk from the beach, but I usually I ride my skatey or bike.
What type of board do you ride?
I have a few boards for different conditions. My go-to board is a 5’9” thruster but I’ve recently developed a love of single-fin surfing. I love the retro style and the connection you feel with the wave.
Can you remember your first wave?
No, but I remember my first barrel. It was the most amazing feeling!
Lefts or rights?
Lefts for barrels, rights for turns.
Beach break or reef?
Reef
What’s your favourite place to surf?
I am fortunate enough to live in a place where there are a lot of amazing breaks nearby. One of my favourite breaks is a place called the Boneyard. With the right conditions you can get some insane rides out there. It’s a right hand reef break with a slabbing take off, then a long perfect wall for turns. When it’s flat I love to spearfish there and check out the reef that I surf over.
Summer south swell or winter north swell?
On the east coast of Australia, it’s the opposite. In the winter we get big winter swells from the south, and in summer we get some fun north-east wind swells. On the odd occasion, we’ll get a cyclone swell pushing all the way down from Queensland - they make for amazing days out at the Boneyard!
What lengths have you gone to to surf uncrowded surf?
A 10-hour drive to Bells Beach in Victoria - it was worth it!
Would you rather surf every wave perfectly or surf perfect waves forever?
Tough question - but I reckon every wave perfectly would be the go.
Who’s your favourite surfer?
Mason Ho - the way he surfs is so stylish.
Do you pee in your wetsuit?
I don't know a surfer who doesn't. Haha
What’s the biggest wave you’ve ever surfed?
I don't know, but my Mum said it was too big! (here’s a pic on Coastal watch)
Do you ever feel afraid in the water? If so, what do you do to overcome this fear?
Sometimes I get pretty scared when it’s super overcast and feels really sharky. Depending on the surf, I either head in or put my feet up on my board and hope for the best. Haha
Is there a certain quality of wave you would call in sick for?
6 foot, offshore and perfect barrels
What is your favourite post-surf meal?
Weet-bix (Australia’s favourite breakfast cereal)
Would you rather live landlocked in a mansion or on a perfect surf break in a shack?
Shack with perfect waves for sure!
If you couldn't surf what sport would you do?
Skate
Would you ever want to compete in surfing?
Yes, I do compete - it’s a lot of fun. We have a great local boardriders club which makes for some fun social competition. I also go in some of the bigger comps up and down the coast. I love road-tripping to these.
What advice would you give to younger surfers?
Surf as much as you can! Enjoy yourself and don't take it too seriously.
Have you ever seen a shark?
I’ve seen a few sharks before from a distance, but nothing up close - thank goodness. There have been a few times where I have had to exit the water due to sightings (and once due to an aggressive seal, haha)
What is your favourite Tuck Life product?
The hats are sick!
Any final words of wisdom?
One of my favourite quotes is “the best surfer is the one having the most fun”!
Yeeww! just wanna say a huge thanks to Mike at mytucklife
